In most cases, the wood will be ready for finishing after this third pass. Perform a final sanding pass using a very fine grit – 220 to 240 (I prefer 220 grit). That will actually take longer because the finer grit will be much less effective at removing the initial sanding marks. Don’t be tempted to “skip a grit” by going right to 220 or higher. This will be the next finer level of coarseness - 150 or 180 grit (if you started at 80 to 120 grit). Vacuum off the dust from the first sanding pass and move onto the next grit. But if you have deep gouges in the wood or it has pronounced “washboard” ripples from the planer, you may well have to start sanding at 80 grit. That will just put down deep scratches that you then have to remove. It’s counterproductive to start at 80 grit in many situations. If the milling marks are not very obvious, you can usually start at 100 or maybe even 120. Use your best judgment and experience here. In most situations, that will be 80 to 120 grit. So it’s onto the grits…īegin sanding with the finest grit that’s capable of removing the machine marks and other imperfections on the wood. But hand tools aren’t for everyone and some tasks are easier done with sandpaper. Make a few quick passes to remove the mill marks and other defects and move on to the finishing. Quick aside: If one is proficient with hand planes and scrapers, it may not be necessary to sand at all. ![]() That’s the gist of going through the grits. Eventually the wood will reach the desired smoothness. ![]() Then, it’s a matter of sanding the wood with progressively finer and finer grits with each grit removing the scratches from the previous grit and replacing them with denser but shallower ones. This is most efficiently done by first sanding the wood with a coarse enough grit to remove the blemishes. Keep in mind that the purpose of sanding is to remove mill marks on the wood created by woodworking machinery – planers, saws, jointers, etc., as well as any scratches, dents, burns, and other defects. This process is sometimes referred to as a sanding schedule or sanding sequence or more simply, going through the grits. That is: what grit to start with, what grit to end with, and what grits to use in between. We are not responsible for any errors.Sanding is not the most pleasant woodworking task but it goes a lot smoother (pun intended) if you have a system in place for choosing sandpaper grits. The grit sizes are defined by the number of lines per inch (25.4 mm) length of each sieve e.g. MM Micro-mesh grit in comparison to other standards. A Micron row is added to each FEPA P, FEPA F, JIS und ANSI row for comparison. As measuring unit it describes 1 thousandth of a millimeter (1 μ = 0.001 mm). MICRON (μ) is the letter "micron" in the Greek alphabet. ![]() JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) issued by the Japanese Standards Association.ĪNSI American National Standards Institute. The decisive factor for comparison is FEPA F. The FEPA distinquishes between grain for sanding paper (FEPA P) and grain for sharpening stones or wheels (FEPA F) Definitions:įEPA (Fédération Européenne des Fabricants de Produits Abrasifs) Federation of European Producers of Abrasives. Use conventional abrasives as normal prior to going into the Micro-mesh stage. Use this Conversion chart to view the different standards and as a guide to know when you can start using Micro-mesh.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |